Excursions near Suez

Suez Canal

The cities and beaches located close to the Suez Canal serve as a popular summer resorts for the tourists visiting Egypt. The Suez Canal Bridge built by the assistance of Japanese government is also known by the name of Egyptian-Japanese Friendship Bridge. It is a high-level fixed Road Bridge that has a 70-meter clearance over the canal constructed at El Qantara.

Suez Canal, Egypt is comprises of two parts-north and south of the Great Bitter Lake. Great Bitter Lake is a salt-water lake that flows between north and south part of Suez Canal. As Suez Canal contains no locks so the water flows freely into the Great Bitter Lake from the Mediterranean and Red Sea. This salt lake acts as a buffer to the canal, protecting canal from the tidal current's effect.


Ras El Sudr is also known as the Elysian of the Red Sea. The myths of Moses that dates back to the period of escaping the army of pharaoh are related to this region of Egypt. Bible depicts that the journey is considered to bring the manna of hopes in the life of the Jews who were captivated. Excursions are the best activities of life. People take a break from the cosmopolitan life, to delve in the deluge of seclusions and natural beauty.

Wind Surfing is one of the best recreational activity in Ras El Sudr. The coast of Sinai is considered to be an incredible part of this heaven. The glamour and beauty of the golden sands will surpass all human imaginations. Take your family and friends to the heart of history and narratives cloaked in the jingles of occidental cultures. Welcome to AsiaRooms.com to have thorough knowledge on Excursions near to Ras El Sudr.
Ain Sukhna
Ain Sukhna, the Arabic for "hot spring", was named after the nearby sulfur springs. The springs originate at Gebel Ataka, the northern most mountain in the Eastern Desert. Close enough to Cairo for a day-trip, this popular weekend resort has fine beaches, coral reefs, fishing and water sports. It is located about 55 kilometers (34 miles) south of Suez, and is the nearest bathing resort to Cairo. Some hotels in Ain Sukhna are the best on the Red Sea.

Location:

55 Km South of Suez, Red Sea

How to get there:

From outside Egypt
Some international flights now go to El+Ein+El+Sokhna, otherwise fly direct to Cairo then either take an internal flight (see below) or go overland by bus or by car. Contact your travel agent for details.

From Cairo

Overland
You may like to book a tour through a travel agent or hire your own transport. Bear in mind that desert driving has special requirements and be sure to get a suitable vehicle and guidance on possible hazards. 0therwise you can travel to each location by bus or service taxi and arrange trips from there.

Suez:
Service taxis or East Delta Bus Company buses from the Koulali terminal, near Ramses Station. By train from Ramses Station.

Ain Sukhna:
Buses or service taxis from Suez or by private transport from Cairo
Scattered along the coast-hugging road are a port, a series of resort complexes, a few independent restaurants, gas stations, and other tourist businesses.

It is not suprising that this area is so well developed, since it represents the closest beaches to Cairo, one of the world's largest cities.

Until recently, Ain Soukhna was mainly an Egyptian vacation spot. Now it is an international destination. Nonetheless, most of the resort complexes consist mainly of vacation villas owned by upper and upper middle-class Egyptians.

Many, though certainly not all of the complexes, also provide hotel accommodations. These range all the way from rather quaint facilities for middle class Egyptians (and probably some Europeans) to international 5-Star hotels.

Ain Soukhna is very convenient for the population of Cairo, and also for international tourists, particularly if a beach vacation is not the main goal of the traveler. Typically, classic tours of Egypt travel primarily along the Nile Valley, notably visiting sites in and around Cairo, Luxor, and Aswan.

Ususally, when tourists want to travel to the Red Sea, they head for either Hurghada on the Egyptian Red Sea or Sharm el-Sheikh at the southern end of the Sinai. The problem is, this journey can take several hours. Both locations involve what is basically a short flight, but when baggage checking and all the other requirements of flying in today's security-conscious environment, your short trip can cost several precious hours of vacation time. Still, not a bad way to go if you have the time to spare.

Another choice is to motor by bus from Luxor to Hurghada, about a five-hour trip. Unfortunately, though, these tours often have to join up with a security convoy; this can sometimes consume a lot of time to organize. Also, people often complain that these convoys travel recklessly fast. Nonetheless, this is probably the least expensive mode of travel to the Red Sea.

On the other hand, Ain Soukhna is a mere two-hour drive from Cairo. Even better, a new road is currently under construction, and will cut the travel time to around an hour.

In Hurghada, most vacationers are pretty much limited to normal beach activities. Yes, there are many things to do at the beach, but there is no real sightseeing. However, you can make arrangements to take a ship along the coast of Hurghada and to Cairo to visit the Great Pyramids.

If sightseeing is your thing, Ain Soukhna Egypt should be your destination. If you're looking for some time at the beach, fly into Cairo and see a few of the sights, then travel on to spend a few days in Ain Soukhna.

Whether a beach vacation is your primary or secondary choice, Ain Soukhna Egypt does offer a convenient itinerary to several nearby sites. Just to the north is the Suez Canal. And a mere ninety-minute drive to the east will bring you to the eastern desert monasteries. And there are also the more classical tours to places like Sharm el-Sheikh, where you can prep for a visit to St. Catherine's Monastery and Mount Sinai, each an extraordinary experience.

In the eastern desert, you will find the Monastery of St. Anthony. It is the world's oldest functioning monastery, and was founded in honor of the saint given credit for founding monasticism. Fortunately, this monastery has recently been restored. Also, nearby is the ancient monastery of St. Paul. Furthermore, St. Catherine's is much further away from Sharm el-Shiekh than St. Anthony's is from Ain Soukhna.

When planning your Ain Soukhna Egypt itinerary, you can schedule a visit to the Suez Canal and the eastern desert monasteries in the same amount of time required to visit only St. Catherine's from Sharm el-Sheikh, with time left over at the beach — all at much less expense than a comparable Hurghada holiday. In fact, when compared to Sharm el-Sheikh, most of the costs at Ain Soukhna are more reasonable, given equal facilities (such as 4- or 5-star hotels).

One more thing: Ain Soukhna Egypt has earned a wonderful reputation for its pristine beaches and coastal waters. The beaches are very well kept. The water is crystal clear. And there are at least two excellent, large resorts, with others under construction.

Palmera Beach Resort with 264 guest rooms and 18 suites offers very reasonable accommodations. On the high end, though not really all that costly, is Stella di Mare, with both a 4- and 5-star hotel, a PlanHotel, and Swiss Inn respectively, that combine for just over 500 rooms including about 15 suites. Stella di Mare, while typical of the resort complexes at Ain Soukhna Egypt, is atypical in its fine accommodations and upscale atmosphere. Besides the hotels, there are also many fine private villas within the compound.

Generally, Red Sea resorts offer all types of shore entertainment, including even a golf course currently under construction. Also, Ain Soukhna Egypt is home to one of the largest and best spa and therapeutic centers in the Middle East. In addition, spread between the two hotels you will find seven restaurants and about four bars. Outside the complex there are also a KFC and a Pizza Hut.

We were very impressed with this complex when we visited. Not only does it offer great facilities, but management and personnel are top notch too.

There is, however, more opportunity for excellent deep-sea fishing than you will find in Hurghada or Sharm el-Sheikh.

Ain Soukha is the rising star of Egyptian tourism. The new road from Cairo, together with other new facilities that are presently under construction will no doubt make this one of Egypt's premiere beach communities. Tour operators should begin now to gear up for its popularity, adding it to standard itineraries because, simply put, it has plenty to offer tourists seeking either a primary or secondary beach vacation.


The monestry of ST Anthony

Born in the Upper Egypt town of Coma near Heracleopolis in the year 251 A.D, St. Antony the Great, when orphaned at the age of 18, became a hermit and thus lived to 105 years old. He lived as an Anchorite, as still exists in Egypt, and it is said that he was tormented his entire life by flatteries and temptations of the devil. He, along with St. Pachomius, were two of the first exponents of Christian monasticism, which originated in the Egyptian desert. He is buried beneath one of the ancient churches (St. Antony) of the monastery. A book written by Athanasius, the bishop of Alexandria, thousands across Europe to follow in the hermit's footsteps.

St. Antony's Monastery (Deir Mar Antonios), and its neighbor St. Paul's, are both Coptic Christian and are the oldest inhabited monasteries in Egypt. Hidden deep in the Red Sea Mountains and relying on springs for their water supply, both still observe rituals that have hardly changed in 16 centuries. They are accessible by special tours from Cairo, Suez or Hurghada and a stay in either monastery can be arranged in advance.

St. Antony's Monastery, which lies at the foot of Al-Qalzam Mountain near Al Zaafarana, was founded in 356 AD just after the saints death and is the oldest active monastery in the world.. We do know that St. Antony founded several monasteries during his life (though they would not have been recognizable in the modern use of the term), but alas they are no more. We know little of the monastery's very early period. However, during the sixth and seventh centuries many monks from Wadi Natroun who were under frequent attacks by Bedouins migrated to St. Antony's. But this monastery was plundered on many occasions also, being partly destroyed in the 11th century. Between the 12th and 15th centuries, the monastery flourished but was plundered again in 1454 by Bedouin servants. Due to such attacks, this is a fortress style monastery. Though Coptic today, over its many years the monastery was often multi-faith, housing monks of several different Christian religions.
Today it is a self-contained village with gardens, a mill, a bakery and five churches, the best of which is St. Antony's Church. Egypt monasteries are experiencing a revival, and the monk population of St. Antony's has grown considerably in recent years.
The Monastery has exceptional wall paintings of holy knights in bright colors and the hermit founders of the monastery in subdued colors and icons. These wall paintings, widely know to monks and art historians, were obscured by soot, candle grease, oil and dust, but recently, in a collaborated effort between the Supreme Council of Antiquities and the American Research Center in Egypt, these unique painting were restored. One set of the paintings is attributed to a team lead by a Coptic master named Theodore, while the other appears to be done by team with Byzantine influence. The oldest paintings date to the seventh and eighth centuries, while the newest are from the thirteenth century. In addition to the paintings, woodwork inside At. Antony's Church was also restored.

There is also a library with over 1,700 handwritten manuscripts, but the Bedouin servants who plundered the monastery used many manuscripts for cooking fuel. At one time, there must have been a much more extensive library.

St. Antony's Cave (magharah), where he lived as a hermit, is a 2 km hike from the monastery and 680 m. above the Red Sea. It offers stunning views of the mountains and the sea, and the chance to see a wide range of bird life.

Other Chapels and Ruins near the
Monastery of Saint Catherine in the Sinai of Egypt
John Watson
Many people who visit St. Catherine's Monastery are unaware of many of the other interesting religious and other sites within the southern Sinai, as well as the region's natural wonders. Specifically, this area of the Sinai has a history, beginning with the Jewish Exodus, as an important religious center with visible ruins that date back considerably prior to the establishment of the Monastery of St. Catherine.
Of course, anyone visiting the monastery is aware that it is situated at the foot of Mount Sinai, but there are a number of other locations that are also worth knowing about and visiting in the region.

While any number of other locations have been suggested as Mount Sinai (also known as Mount Horeb and today, Jebel Musa) of the Bible, very old traditions maintain that the mountain that rises dramatically above the Monastery of St. Catherine is in fact the true site where Moses received the Ten Commandments. In the valleys surrounding the mountain are also any number of other sites long held to be holy places connected with the biblical story of the Exodus, as well as from later times when biblical figures such as Elijah returned to the mountain (between 900 and 800 BC).

It is doubtful that anyone today is aware of the specific evidence that convinced so many very early hermits to establish themselves in the vicinity of Mount Sinai, though oral and other traditions dating much further back probably played a role. By Egyptian standards, the biblical Exodus can be said to have occurred actually rather late in their history, probably between 1,500 and 1,200 years before the time of Christ. There were certainly even then the same race of Bedouins, as well as other Egyptians scattered throughout the Southern Sinai, who would have known about and even had contact with the wandering Jews. It would seem logical that they would have been the ones who maintained the traditions that would later define specific sites as some of the most holy places mentioned in the Bible.

While the earliest ruins we know of in this region of the Sinai date to the 4th century, it is not impossible that earlier religious sites do exist in this rocky, mostly desolate landscape.


Map of the Region around St. Catherine's Monastery

At Mount Sinai, a long flight of 3,700 steps, hand hewn from the stone by the monastery monks, leads to the peak of the mountain. Writing in the 4th century, Etheria explains that in his time the stairway extended only part way up the mountain, and perhaps this early section of the stairway was carved out in the 4th century, but their origin, and exactly when they were built is lost to us. Records of the monastery reveal that they were completed by an anonymous monk under the patronage of Emperor Justinian in the 6th century.

The stairway is known as the "Stairs of Repentance". Mount Horeb is of special importance by reason of the "Peak of the Decaloque". A church consecrated to the Prophet Elijah was built on this peak during ancient times, and Ephraim the Deacon in the 4th century records the existence of twelve chapels on the slopes and summit of Mount Horeb.

Along the stairway one passes a number of historical sites. For example, the first significant one is known as the Spring of Symeon, where Saint Stephen supposedly baptized Jews so that they could pass through the Shrive Gate further up on their way to the Holy Mount. However, prior to reaching the Shrive Gate (The Gate of Forgiveness or Gate of Confession), one passes by the White Washed Byzantine chapel about halfway up the mountain known as the Chapel of Our Lady of the Steward (Oikonomissa). Still further up is Elijah's Gate and beyond that, Elijah's Basin. Here on a sandy surface, is an ancient well and below the well, a Byzantine dam built to prevent flood damage to the Monastery. There is also the chalky white Church of Elijah, which is built over a stone beneath which Elijah is said to been sheltered when he spoke with God (I Kings 19:1-18). Here also, about 200 meters from the other church at the neck of the basin is the Church of Saint Stephen, which is believed to mark the cave where Saint Stephen lived. His cloaked, 6th century remains are now in the ossuary at the Monastery.

At the top of Mount Sinai, a church was built on this site very early, possibly in the 4th century, and rebuilt later under Justinian on plans by the architect Stephanos. Today, only the foundation of the old church remains, which was fairly large, measuring 21 meters in length and 11.5 meters wide. In 1933, a small chapel dedicated to the Holy Trinity was raised over part of the ruins of the Justinian church, and there is also an ancient mosque built on the peak. Both of the newer structures were built partly from blocks of the older church.

The alternate path up the mountain is by camel, and it too passes by a number of interesting sites. The camel path up Mount Sinai begins just behind the monastery and leads up to just short of Elijah's Basin.

Some distance up this path leads past a small mountain or hill known as Jethro's Mountain or Jebel El-Muneijah. This is the site where Jethro and his daughters were supposed to have lived when Moses first came to Mount Sinai. On its summit is a small white church dedicated to Saint Theodore the Commander and Saint Theodore the Tyro (Recruit), both martyred Roman soldiers.

This path continues to twist its way up the mountain until almost reaching Elijah's Basin, but looking about on the way up, one can discern other sites on nearby mountains.

Opposite the Monastery, on the Mount of St. Episteme, also known as Jebel el-Deir, are a hermitage and a chapel dedicated to St. Episteme, as well as a cave in the name of St. Galaktion. The monastery is located about half way up the mountain. To the south of these structures and east southeast of the Monastery is another small monastery known as Magafa, which is nestled amid date palms and Byzantine walls.

To the north of the Monastery of St. Catherine leading to the northwest is Wadi el-Deir, along which the road to the monastery runs. The stone ruins just to the north of this road as one approaches the monastery date only to the mid 19th century. They are the barracks built for Abbas Pasha's soldiers and workers.

A little further north and close to the village of St. Catherine is Aaron's Hill, Here, there is both a Christian Church and a Muslim Shrine. According to tradition, the Golden Calf was set up and worshipped on this hill.

Just to the north of the hotels of the village is the Plain of El-Raha, meaning resting place, where supposedly Aaron and the Israelites made the golden calf while Moses was on Mount Sinai.

To the south of the hotels is a location known as Bustan, where there is a chapel honoring the Birth of the Virgin Mary. Southwest of this is an environmental center and nearby is the convent of the 12 Apostles.

Further south along the Wadi el-Arbaein, that lies on the opposite side of Mount Sinai from the Monastery of St. Catherine, is the Chapel of the Prophet Moses and next to it is a stone wall which encloses the "Rock of Moses". Monks relate that this rock relates to the time of the Exodus and is described in 1 Cor. 10:4.

Still further south along the wadi is the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs, surrounded by a green belt of olive, cypress and poplar trees. This monastery was built during the 6th century in honor of the forty Christian martyrs, Roman soldiers, who died at Sebaste in central Turkey. In the garden of the monastery is the chapel of St. Onouphrios, who is said to have lived for seventy years in the rock shelter at the northern end of the garden, until he died in the late 4th century AD.

Another route just to the south of the hotels at the village of St. Catherine leads into the Wadi Shrayj, which later connects to Wadi Ferrah further to the south. Here, not far south of the hotels are rounded walls, niches and shelves and tiny doors that make up typical Byzantine stone dwellings. One can also see traces of ancient water systems or conduits that are typical of the Byzantine era. A bit further south up this wadi are more Byzantine ruins and a few ancient Nabatean structures that date from between 200 BC and 100 AD.

About five miles from the Monastery is the well known Valley of Thola, where one finds preserved to this day a cave and chapel that were the retreat of the celebrated St. John Scholasticus, perhaps better known as St. John Climacus after his renowned work. In the same area is a dependency of St. Catherine's Monastery known as Saints Anargyroi.

In the same general area near the Monastery but beyond Mount Sinai is the Mount of St. Catherine, where there is a chapel dedicated to St. Catherine on the site. Traditions hold that the Saint's body was found. Mount Catherine is the highest in the Sinai Peninsula, towering some 8,700 feet above sea level. The mountain is not difficult to ascend and its peak offers a magnificent view south to the Red Sea and Gulf of Aqaba.

Somewhat further away to the northwest of the Monastery is the famous Wadi Feiran.(Wadi Faran) which is actually the largest oasis in the Sinai. It once had the privilege of being the See of the first Bishopric of the Sinai Peninsula. The latest excavations at Feiran have brought to light the foundations, the floor and the ruined wall of the ancient church and annexes. This was the place mentioned in Genesis 21:21 as the site where Hagar dwelt with her son after Abraham sent her away. Today, there is a fine and interesting convent, as well as other sites with historical significance in the area.

A little north of Wadi Feiran is Wadi Mukattab, also known as the Valley of Inscriptions, which has Byzantine graffiti.

Present day El-Tor is not much visited by foreign tourists, but this is ancient Raitho where, during the time of the Roman emperor Diocletian, the Holy Fathers of the Sinai were massacred by the Blemmyes of Africa. Not much is left here, but a letter addressed by the Abbot John Hegoumenos of Raitho to "John the most worthy Hegoumenos of Mount Sinai" has survived. From this we learn that at the time of the Abbot John there was a lavra (a group of hermit dwellings) at Raitho. Today, one can still see the ruins of a monastery built by Justinian, and there is also a more recent monastery with a splendid church and a guest house.

Here, we have concentrated mostly on religious sites, though we have not mentioned every chapel even in the region around Mount Sinai, as there are a number of other sites that are difficult to place. Furthermore, it should be mentioned that there are various mines, quarries, pharaonic ruins, and more modern sites, as well as natural wonders in this region that are beyond the scope of this description. For example, Serabit el-Khadem, which has mines and a temple is within the Valley of Inscriptions.

Egypt's Southern Sinai in and around the Monastery of St. Catherine is a wonderful place to experience Christianity's roots, as well as biblical sites dating back to the very foundations of Judaism. Taking a few extra days to explore the region may provide surprising finds in this land that continues to hold gems of hidden beauty and wonder.

See Also:

St. Catherine Protected Area
Walking Tours of the Sinai
See Also (Related to St. Catherine's Monastery)

Our Monastery of St. Catherine Home Page
A History of St. Catherine's Monastery In Egypt's Sinai
The Icons of the Monastery of St. Catherine
The Physical Components of the Monastery of Saint Catherine
Other Chapels and Ruins near the Monastery of Saint Catherine in the Sinai of Egypt
Gallery of Artifacts in the Monastery of St. Catherine Collection
Resources:
http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/catherines4.htm
Jebel Abbas Pasha

A Walking Trail Guide



Contents

Saint Katherine Protectorate- How to use this guide
Preparation
What will I see?
Site 1 Start of the Walk
Site 2 View of St. Katherine and the Plain of El-Raha
Site 3 Hajar Abu Geefa and Traditional Bedouin Marriage Proposal
Site 4 Leopard Trap
Site 5 Start of the Traditional Climb into the Mountains
Site 6 Ain Shkaiya Spring
Site 7 Ancient Mulberry Tree
Site 8 Saad Mahmuud Stopover
Site 9 Abbas Pasha Road
Site 10 Panorama
Site 11 The Palace
Jebel Abbas Pasha

Saint Katherine Protectorate

Introduction

There is more to the Saint Katherine Protectorate than just the Monastery and Mount Sinai. A wealth of cultural, natural and religious history awaits discovery within the 4350 km2 of the Saint Katherine Protectorate. The unique high altitude desert ecosystem and the religious landscape surrounding the Saint Katherine Monastery are intertwined with treasures of Bedouin life and culture. This series of guidebooks cover half to full day walks in the areas around the Saint Katherine village and Montasery.

All visitors to the mountain region must be accompanied by a Bedouin guide. Your Bedouin guide will share his extraordinary knowledge of this area’s rich environment, and help make your walk safe and easy.

How to use this guide

This booklet will complement your experience with your Bedouin guide whilst inside the Saint Katherine Protectorate.

The site numbers in this booklet correspond to the numbers on the engraved sandstone markers located along the path. At each site you will have the opportunity to read a little about what you see, hear and smell so as to discover more of the wildlife, history and culture of the area.

Preparation

You must be reasonably fit in order to hike any of these trails comfortably; some gradients are steep.
Wear sturdy shoes and a hat and take sunscreen and matches or a lighter.
Please leave no trace of your visit, carry out all your litter, bury your bodily waste and burn your toilet paper.
In order to complete the Jebel Abbas Pasha walk in one day, you need to start early (8 am). However, if a guide can be organized for earlier it is advisable, as it makes the walk more enjoyable especially in the summer months June- September.
It is advisable to take at least 4.5 liters of water (three bottles) per person as the walk is fairly arduous, with little shade in the higher section of the walk.
It must be stressed that the walk is considerably longer and harder than that of Mount Sinai (Jebel Musa) and can take up to four hours to the summit however it is a very worthwhile walk incorporating history, wildlife and spectacular views from one of the highest mountains in Egypt.
Organize your guide at the El Milgah Tourist office, about 750 metres west of the shops in Saint Katherine village. The trail begins from the office then winds up over the steep pass of Abu Geefa. The walk takes approximately 8 hours to complete with some steep sections.

What will I see?

The walk centers around the palace built by Abba Hilmi I – Pasha or Viceroy of Egypt between 1849-1854, and his quest for a high altitude mountain retreat, partly for health reasons and partly to allow him to lead a recluse life style. The panoramic view from the top of Jebel Abbas Pasha is one of the finest in the high mountain area. The walk also gives you a chance to see the beauty of the mountains, experience the natural history of the area and see aspects of the Jebeliya Bedouin culture.

Historical note

Abbas Pasha I, the grandson and successor of the great reformist Mohamed Ali, was born in 1813. He is best remembered for the emancipation of the fellaheen and the construction of the Cairo-Alexandria railway line in 1851. However Abbas Pasha spent much of his life secluded in desert palaces surrounded by his body-guards. He died in his desert palace about 60 km outside Cairo on the Suez road. Abbas Pasha had a significant influence on the immediate area around St. Katherine. Besides the construction of the mountain top palace he commissioned the building of the camel path up Mount Sinai and the Askar barracks on the way to the monastery, which now lies in ruins.

Site 1

Start of the Walk

The walk starts just beyond El Milgah, the main Bedouin village in Saint Katherine. Ayn Tufaha well is on the left, just after the first garden. From here you climb south out of town, passing a large kharuub tree, some massive boulders, a pretty decorated Bedouin house and a walled garden.

Fifteen minutes after the start of the climb you branch right, onto the Nagb Abu Geefa path which takes you up to the pass which for centuries has been the doorway into the mountains beyond. Geefa literally means "corpse", and probably refers to the odour of the accumulated camel droppings. The path on your left leads eventually to Jebel Katrin. The Abu Geefa path you take to the right was made by Abbas Pasha to help build his palace. Look out for drill marks on rocks. He used soldiers for its construction, positioning them in a line up the mountain along which building materials were passed. Islamic law states that Muslims should give a portion of their income to charity, or do something to benefit the community. Amongst the Jebeliya Bedouin charitable work often involved the repair of mountain paths such as the Abu Geefa path. Recent repairs have been done by the Protectorate in collaboration with local people.

Site 2

View of St. Katherine and the Plain of El-Raha

From here the view of Saint Katherine is superb. The white house to your right with the terra-cotta roof is an old Monastic retreat at the foot of Jebel Raba. The modern complex in the foreground consists of the City Council, the High School and the Islamic School. Most of El Milgah is obscured to your left. The town center is spread out around the mosque. Beyond is the sandy Plain of El-Raha which is believed to be the site where the Israelites camped while waiting for Moses.

Continue to site 3 following the path which zigzags past a garden suspended in terraces in this steep, narrow wadi. Almonds, olives, pomegranate, apricots and grapes grow here.

Site 3

Hajar Abu Geefa and Traditional Bedouin Marriage Proposal

Where the path begins to level out there are some large rocks; the hollow one with a wall is Hajar Abu Geefa and under it you can see the remains of a storeroom. Look out for the boulder with foot-shaped engravings. These represent an old Bedouin form of marriage proposal, no longer practiced. The man went to the rock and engraved the outline of his foot after which the girl would add hers beside it. If the father agreed to the marriage, a circle was drawn around the two footprints. Not every proposal had a happy outcome, as you may notice. Remember it is forbidden now for visitors to write on or deface rocks.

Continue 100 meters to the top of the pass.

Site 4

Leopard Trap – Nosret al-Nimr

As you reach the top look to the left of the marker stone at what first appears to be a heap of stones. This is an old burrow trap for catching leopards. It is typically situated in a narrow pass through which leopards frequently passed. The trap was baited with a tethered goat and a stone rigged at the entrance to fall when the bait was touched, entombing the leopard. The large flat entrance stone is still in place. Leopard traps were also used to catch wolves.

Leopards still do occur in the Sinai mountains but they are very rare and possibly always have been as in desert areas they require large territories for hunting. In 1996 a leopard was killed in the coastal mountains of Abu Galum south of Nuweiba and recently there have been several, unconfirmed sightings not far from Saint Katherine town.

Just beyond the leopard trap is a useful place to stop and rest in the early morning as the shade becomes less abundant the higher you climb. Here you are standing on part of the ring-dyke, a massive intrusion of volcanic rock which circles around St. Katherine. The dyke is distinguished by its dark colour against the surrounding red granite.

Nature Notes

The Sinai leopard is very much smaller than the African leopard and has a preferred diet of birds, mice, and rock hyrax ( a rabbit-like creature). It will eat goats and other small livestock if available, and it was this and a fear for human safety which led to its persecution and demise; however it should not be considered as dangerous to people.

Continue down the raised path which takes you down into the beautiful Wadi Toboug with its trekkers’ stopover.

Site 5

Start of the Traditional Pathway into the Mountains

This point marks where the Bedouin consider the start of the climb into the mountains to begin. Continue along Wadi Tabouq past three traditional walled gardens containing fig trees. The fig (teen in Arabic) is recognizable by its silvery grey bark and is the last of the fruit trees to come into leaf. Some of these trees are a product of grafting, where cuttings from a lowland variety of fig were transplanted onto the mountain fig in order to get a good yield of fruit. You can see the smaller leaves and fruits of the mountain fig below the graft mark. Various different species can be successfully grafted eg. pear onto hawthorn.

Site 6

Ayn Shkaiya Spring

Ayn Shkaiya is a shallow water trough constructed on a rock shelf. Ayn means eye and is often used to refer to springs, as they have a likeness to an eye. Here water trickles down from a crevice above, marked by an overhanging clump of rushes. This has long been a water collection point for both people and animals; you should treat the water before drinking. Do not touch wild plants as they may contain compounds that can cause severe skin reaction.

Continue along Wadi Toboug, past gardens where mulberries (tute), walnuts (ain al gamal), olives (zituun), and pomegranates (rohman) are cultivated. After 400 metres turn into the right hand Wadi at the junction by the fig tree.

Site 7

Ancient Mulberry Tree

This giant mulberry tree with its multiple trunks is one of only seven in the vicinity of Saint Katherine. It possibly dates back to Byzantine times (7th century AD) and is protected by Bedouin tribal law. The wadi narrows and the ground becomes mossy – after rain a stream flows through here. Mint (habak) and thyme (zatar) grow here in profusion.

About 300 metres on Wadi Toboug turns into Wadi Zawatiin ( a derivative of zituun, meaning olives), turn right after about 15 minutes you reach a trekker’s stopover.

Site 8

Saad Mahmuud Stopover

This establishment is owned by Saad Mahmuud and is the last of such stopovers before the top, so it is a good idea to stock up on drinks here, as the ascent becomes much harder work as the gradient increases and the shade ceases. Looking back, the dark granite peak of Jebel Katrin, Egypt’s highest mountain, dominates the view.

Continue up the wadi on a reinforced path, beside tall garden walls for about 20 minutes.

Site 9

Start of Abbas Pasha Road

Here you come to a massive stone construction, some of which was washed away be the floods which once surged down here. This was to be a road to take Abbas Pasha in his horse-drawn carriage to his palace, but was never completed as the ruler died a year after building commenced.

Although the rein of Abbas Pasha was short-lived, he constructed several roads within Sinai, a traditioanal resort for Egyptian khedives (rulers). One of these routes built by his army linked El-Tur with Mount Sinai and Jebel Abbas Pasha. This route passed through Abu Sila village in the Plain of El-Raha with one branch going on to Mount Sinai, the camel path which tourists now use, and another branch on which you now stand leads up to the summit of Jebel Abbas Pasha.

The path steepens and after 15 minutes you reach the pass.

Site 10

Panorama



Here you can catch your breath and enjoy superb views northwards into Wadi Tiinya and south to Jebel Katrin. To your left, on the west, rises Jebel Sumera, from the top of which were cut some of the red granite building blocks for the palace. To your right, the stone walls you see winding up the mountainside are in fact a reinforced road to the summit which was used by donkeys to transport materials. There are also remains of some of the workers’ houses.

Turn right and a climb of about half an hour brings you to the summit ridge, from where you bear left for the palace.

Site 11

The Palace



Abbas Pasha suffered from tuberculosis and planned to build a palace where he could recuperate in the healthy mountain air. He finally settled on this 2383m mountain then called Jebel Tiinya, apparently after placing meat on several summits and observing that it decayed slower on this mountain than on others. Another version of this story is that the monks told him that meat spoiled least here, in order to keep him away from Mount Sinai where he had originally intended to build his palace. Construction began in 1853, but in 1854 Abbas Pasha died. Work stopped, and the incomplete palace now stands abandoned on the summit, it is about 45 metres square and was to have been two stories high.

Unused granite blocks and fired bricks lie around and the unfinished doorways are framed by beautifully squared lintels. The red granite blocks were cut from Wadi Zawatiin and Jebel Sumera; the bricks were made on site from granite sand. The walls are 1-2m thick and contain the remains of wooden joists, many of which have been removed for firewood in the intervening years. Inside the palace you can see the layout of the cellars, and an area covered by white chalky material where mortar was prepared.

Abbas Pasha had a lasting distrust of foreigners. He strongly opposed many of the western inspired change introduced by his grandfather Mohammed Ali Pasha (1805-1848) and he is remembered as a traditionalist and reactionary who undid many of his grandfather’s modernizing reforms. His secretive and suspicious nature has led to much speculation over his death; it is uncertain whether he was murdered or died of a stroke.

Had he lived, Abbas Pasha would have gazed out at a commanding panorama of the mountains: Mount Sinai, Jebel Baab, Jebel Serbal, Jebel Tarbuush, Jebel Em Ali, collectively described as the roof of Egypt. Below lies the town of Saint Katherine and the Plain of El-Raha – modern concrete buildings contrasting with traditional Beouin houses which blend in to the background. Beyond you have a birds-eye view of Mt. Sinai, Raf Safsaafa (Mount Horeb), Jebel el-Deir, Wadi Arbaein and Wadi Shrayj.

Notes

Before cement was invented, mortar was made from chippings of the lime deposits found on rocks inundated with water, burning them in a kiln (tuun) and mixing the resulting powder with water to form a mortar paste. This ancient method produced a lasting mortar and was also used in Bedouin tombs to enable them to survive the centuries. Numerous lime kilns can be found in the surrounding wadis.

At this point you can retrace your path, or ask your guide to return by another route. Be aware that other routes may be steep.

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The Monastery of St. Paul
In Egypt's Eastern Desert
by Jimmy Dunn


Egypt's Eastern Desert, at least for now, provides us little in the way of antiquities for travelers. Pharaonically, there are a few trade routes and other ruins. However, it is the home to two of Egypt's best known Christian monuments which include the well known monastery of St. Anthony (Antonios) and perhaps the less well known Monastery of St. Paul of Thebes.
The Monastery of St. Paul probably dates to the fifth century and was founded in memory of one of Egypt's greatest saints and anchorites, who is said to have lived in a cave over which it was built for a period of some eighty years. We mostly know of his life from the writings of St. Jerome and his work, Vita Pauli (Life of Paul), which was written between 375 and 380 AD. St. Jerome tell us that, while it may have been St. Anthony who founded the monastic way of life by inspiring others, Amathas and Macarius, who were disciples of Anthony, affirm that Paul of Thebes was actually the originator of the practice.

St. Paul was apparently born to rich parents in the year 228, However, by the age of sixteen, he had lost his parents. This would have corresponded with the terrible period of Christian persecution perpetuated by Decius and Valerian between 249 and 260 AD. After the death of his parents, Paul renounced his inheritance and consecrated his life to God, eventually seeking refuge in the wilderness of Egypt's Eastern Desert, where he is said to have lived until the age of one hundred and thirteen. Living in his cave, and clothed in a tunic made of plaited palm leaves, tradition holds that a raven brought a half of a loaf of bread which day for him to eat.

Jerome tells us that Anthony, who was apparently at least a contemporary of Paul, was told of someone living in the desert that was holier then he. Hence, he set out to find Paul and, having succeeded, had a friendly conversation with him. That evening when the Raven came to bring the saint's nourishment, he came with a whole loaf so that both the holy men might have substance.

Apparently, Anthony and Paul continued to be friends for many years. When Paul thought that he was approaching death, he asked Anthony to fetch the cloak which the patriarch Athanasius had given him. However, when Anthony arrived at the cave where Paul had lived those many years, he saw angels carrying the soul of the holy ascetic to heaven. Paul's body remained in the cave, but two lions approached and dug a grave into which Anthony placed Paul's body wrapped in the cloak he had fetched. Anthony is said to have kept Paul's tunic of palm leaves, which he wore to celebrate the occasions of Easter and Pentecost.

The Monastery of St. Paul (Deir Anba Bula), which has also been called the Monastery of the Tigers (Deir al-Numur), perhaps because of its wilderness location, has always been associated with the Monastery of St. Anthony, usually in a subordinate manner. The first travel narrative we have of the monastery was provided by Antoninus Martyr, a native of Placentia who visited the tomb of St. Paul between the years 560 and 570 AD. The first monks to occupy the monastery may have been Melchite, but they were followed by Egyptian and Syrian monks. The Syrians may have had a sustained existence at the monastery, for it appears that they also occupied the monastery during the first half of the fifteenth century, after which their presence disappears. It should also be noted that, according to an isolated Ethiopian reference, the seventieth patriarch of the Coptic Church, Gabriel II (1131-45 AD) was banished to the monastery for three years.

Like many of Egypt's earliest monasteries, this one suffered at the hands of Bedouin tribes. One during the year 1484 was particularly destructive, when many of the monks were killed and their library was put to the torch. Afterwards, the monastery was rebuilt under the patronage of Patriarch Gabriel VII, who sent ten monks from the Monastery of the Syrians (Wadi al-Natrun). Yet, during the second half of the sixteenth century, it was again attacked and ransacked twice, forcing the monks to finally leave.

The monastery apparently set deserted for the next 119 years, only to be repopulated by a group of monks from the Monastery of St. Anthony under the patronage of John XVI, who promoted an extensive reconstruction in 1701.


General Plan of the Monastery

The Walls

Most ancient, remote Egyptian monasteries are in fact fortifications for good reason. Likewise, St. Paul's Monastery has high defensive walls surrounding the monastic buildings. The history of this enclosure is complex and corresponds to various periods. We know that the walls were considerably enlarged during the eighteenth century under John XVI, but the final walls we see today were completed during the nineteenth century. Also like many other monasteries, the fortress appears to have had no original door and therefore we find on the inside of the east wall the ancient hoist used to haul food, goods and even visitors up the wall and into the monastery.

The Tower

The tower (keep, or qasr) is perhaps one of the most obvious structures within the complex. As usual, it was entered via a drawbridge and represented the last defensive bastion against the desert raiders. Situated next to the church of St. Paul, in the past, its ground floor served as a cemetery for the monks, while the second floor was a storeroom for the food reserves which would sustain the monks through a period of long siege. Traditionally in Coptic monasteries, the highest story is dedicated to the archangel Michael, but since he is already the titular saint of the large church in the center of the monastery, here the third floor has a chapel dedicated to the Holy Virgin, which is roofed with a wooden cupola. There are also cells for the monks on this level of the tower.

Churches

Altogether, the Monastery of St. Paul has four churches, three of which are situated in the ancient part of the complex.

The Church of St. Paul

Attesting to its antiquity, the Church of St. Paul , also sometimes referred to as the Cave Church, located next to the tower sits three meters below the current level of the monastery grounds. This is the spiritual center of the monastery. Its southern end is the oldest part, hollowed out of the cave in which St. Paul is believed to have lived. This section of the church, at least, probably dates to the fifth century. The north part of the church dates to medieval times.

One enters this church via a staircase attached to the the chapel walls. Within, the church proper consists of one nave in the center and three sanctuaries dedicated to the twenty four elders of Revelation (north, St. Anthony (center), and St. Paul (south). The central and south sanctuaries and the part of the nave facing them were excavated from the rock itself, while the remainder of the building to the north is made of masonry.

The wooden cupola which roofs the chapel is decorated with the equestrian figures of Saints Apater and his sister Irene, Isidore, Apa Iskhirun, James and Julius, all warrior saints. These were produced by the monastery monks in 1713, but probably overlay earlier iconography that is lost to us. The paintings on the walls of the cave date to the same restoration work, portraying biblical subjects such as the archangels Michael, Gabriel, and Raphael, as well as the angel and Aniel's three companions, Hananiah, Mishael and Azariah, respectively called Shadrach, Meshach and Abednego by the officer of King Nebuchadnezzar (Dan 3:10-26). However, in the middle sanctuary dedicated to St. Anthony, though in poor condition, are wall paintings that date to the first half of the fourteenth century. Here, we can just make out depictions of Christ enthroned, the annunciation, St. John the Baptist, angles and archangels.

The body of St. Paul is kept in a marble shrine on the south side of the nave. One traditional story holds that the saint's relics were taken to Constantinople in 1240, and from there they were sent to Venice in 1381. Indeed, an urn in the church of St. Julian in Venice is believed to contain some of his remains. Recent analysis has shown that the remains in Venice are that of only a leg of a very old man (over eighty) who lived between the first century and the first half of the forth centuries, AD. Hence, they certainly may be a fraction of the body of the saint that mostly rests in the Egyptian monastery that bears his name.

The Church of St. Mercurius

Located above Paul's cave, and almost atop the Church of St. Paul, the church of St. Mercurius (Abu al-Seifein) dates from the end of the eighteenth century. Hence, it contains few interesting elements, with the exception of a precious iconostasis inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl. This church is connected to the cave by a much older staircase. Many churches in Egypt are dedicated to this saint, the most well known of which is probably in Old Cairo. This church is only used once a year during the week prior to Lent.

The Church of St. Michael

The Church of St. Michael (al-Malak) was built in 1777, with a roof consisting of twelve cupolas. It has two sanctuaries including one dedicated to St. Michael to the north, and to St. John the Baptist in the south. While the true spiritual center of the monastery is the subterranean church of St. Paul, it is two small for the daily liturgy, so this service is held in the the Church of St. Michael, which is the largest church in the complex.

The Refectory and the Mill

Within the monastery is an ancient refectory that is no longer in use, but which dates back to medieval times. It is situated in the east wing of the complex. The main axis of the refectory is covered by a barrel vaulted roof. Within, a heavy masonry table with a lectern fashioned on its west end, from which the sacred texts and the lives of the saints and martyres were read during the community meal, dominates the room. The refectory is entered by way of a narrow passage, and on the west side of the passage are two rooms that were once used as mills. Within are big stone millstones which were operated by huge wooden gears turned by draft animals.

The Spring of St. Paul

An ancient spring named for St. Paul resides in the north wing of the complex. It continues to supply water at the rate of about four cubic meters per day. The water comes from a mountain crevice and flows into a cemented reservoir tank that is used for drinking and cooking. A small drain allows the surplus water into a second reservoir, which is used by the monks for washing, and a final drain carries off the remaining water into a large basin where it is distributed for irrigation. However, a second spring, known as the Pool of Miriam is located about one hundred meters to the south of the monastery. It was named after the sister of Moses and Aaron, who according to tradition washed there during the Exodus
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Mount Sinai and the Peak of Mount Musa (Mousa)
by Jimmy Dunn



Mount Sinai and the General Area

While there have been a number of other locations suggested as the biblical site of Mount Sinai, also referred to as Mount Horeb, the traditional location is a peak in the central southern Sinai peninsula. This site and the surrounding area are steeped in Biblical tradition. All around Mount Sinai are locations and sites that have been associated with Biblical places named in the Exodus, and there is a long oral tradition of their authenticity. However, there is no proven archaeological evidence that this, or any of the other suggested alternate locations of Mount Sinai, is the actual one referred to in the Bible. Nevertheless, this mountain has drawn pilgrims for over a thousand years in the overwhelming belief that it is the Holy Mountain, and its tradition as the Biblical peak can be directly traced back to the fourth century AD. John Lloyd Stephens said that "Among all the stupendous works of Nature, not a place can be selected more fitting for the exhibition of Almighty power."

The traditional Mount Sinai, located in the Sinai Peninsula, is actually the name of a collection of peaks, sometimes referred to as the Holy Mountains. The mountain was called Sinai, or "the mount of God" possibly before the time of Moses, according to Josephus. On its southern end is Mount Mousa (or Musa), sometimes referred to as Jebel Musa, Gebel Mousa, Mount Moses or the Mountain of Moses (all of which basically means the same thing). This peak is traditionally considered to be biblical place where Moses communicated with God and received the Ten Commandments. It also has considerable religious significance to Islam as the place where Mohammed's horse, Boraq, ascended to heaven.


The Chapel of the Holy Trinity, surrounded by a throng of Brazilian Pilgrims

Mount Musa is 7,495 feet (2,285 meters) high. It is not he highest peak in the Sinai, That distinction, as well as the highest in Egypt, belongs to nearby Mount Catherine, which is 8652 feet (2637 meters) high. Visitors to Mount Musa may climb it using several routes. The shortest route, known as Siket Syidna Musa, is a steep stairway consisting of 3,750 steps, known as the "steps of penitence", that were hewn out of stone by the monks of St. Catherine's Monastery, located at the northeastern foot of the mountain, and enclosing what is traditionally thought to be the Burning Bush. However, this route may not be climbed at night, actually when most people ascend the mountain in order to arrive at the peak for the sunrise.

The longer, less steep track, known as Siket El Bashait, may be climbed at night either on foot or by camel. It takes an average of about two and one half hours to ascend on foot. At a number of locations along the longer route, often referred to as the camel route, there are vendors where one may buy water, food and other items. Both of the routes lead to a natural amphitheater known as the "Seven Elders of Israel", where the wise men are thought to have waited while God spoke to Moses. From there, one must ascend the remaining 750 steps on foot to reach the summit


A view from just below the peak of Mount Sinai

The Chapel of the Holy Trinity, built in 1934 (on the location of the original chapel built in 363 and rebuilt by Justinian in 530), is located on the summit, but is not open to the public, though it is said to enclose the rock from which God made the tablets of the Ten Commandments. There is also a small mosque and a cave where Moses is thought to have waited to receive the Tablets. Of course, the summit also provides a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountain ranges and valleys. While the monuments on the peak of Mount Musa are well known, there are a number of other monuments and historical site located on the mountain, many of which are located along the stairway, and on the surrounding mountains.


Another View from the Top of Mount Sinai

There are other peaks in this range, some of which have also been contested as the true Mount Sinai. Jebel Serbal is also a candidate. Other peaks in this range include Jebel Megafa and Jebel Moneiga.


Mount Sinai



St. Catherine Protected Area
Walking Tours of the Sinai (Specifically a Walking Tour of Mount Sinai, recently updated)
Other Chapels and Ruins near the Monastery of Saint Catherine in the Sinai of Egypt
A survey of Egypt, Part XII: Mount Sinai and Sharm el-Sheikh
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Last Updated: 11/16/2006